SKILL LEVEL
extreme
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Manaslu is the world’s eighth-highest peak at an altitude of 8,163 meters (26,781 ft). Located in central-western Nepal, it is part of the Mansiri Himal range of the Himalaya. The Sanskrit word manasa means “intellect” or “soul,” hence the name Manaslu translates to “mountain of the spirit”. It is located at about 64 kilometers east of Annapurna. The mountain’s extensive ridges and valley glaciers allow for approaches from many angles, leading to a top that stands dramatically above the surrounding terrain.
After being initially scaled by a Japanese expedition by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu in 1956, the peak has subsequently gained popularity among mountaineers. Extremely steep slopes, erratic weather, and challenging terrain make Manaslu famous for both its magnificent scenery and its challenging climbing conditions. The people also attach spiritual and cultural importance on the mountain, seeing it as a representation of their history and identity. Join us for a once in a lifetime adventure on Manaslu.
27 Days Expedition / (SKILL LEVEL: extreme)
Climbing Manaslu offers a great opportunity for aspiring mountaineers to experience an 8000-meter peak, achievable in about 27 days. Our express programs are designed for those with time constraints who still want to ascend Manaslu, rather than committing to the typical 40-45 day itinerary (we can provide this itinerary on your demand).
Manaslu is an excellent preparation for larger expeditions like Mt. Everest, offering a challenging ascent through the death zone to the summit.
Please note that to participate in our 27-day itinerary, all participants are required to undergo an extensive hypoxic acclimatization and training program for at least 8 weeks, with a maximum recommended duration of 10 weeks, to aid in their adaptation. It is crucial that these targets are strictly adhered to for the success of the express climb.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300m/4,265ft)
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be greeted by our staff and transferred to your hotel. In the evening, there will be a welcome dinner and briefing about the expedition.
Day 02: Preparation day for legal formalities, team briefing, and rest (1300m/4,265ft)
Today, we will handle the necessary government paperwork and permits for the expedition. There will be a detailed team briefing to discuss the plan and preparations. You will have the rest of the day to relax and explore Kathmandu.
Day 03: Heli Flight to Samagaun (3,690m/12,106ft)
We take an early morning helicopter flight to the village of Samagaun, which lies at an altitude of 3,690 meters. This scenic flight provides stunning views of the Himalayas. Upon arrival, we will settle into our accommodations and rest.
Day 04: Rest at Samagaun (3,690m/12,106ft)
Today is dedicated to acclimatization, during which you can explore the village and its surroundings. Acclimatization here is crucial as it helps prepare us for the higher altitudes to come.
Day 05: Trek from Samagaun to Manaslu Base Camp (4,800m/15,748ft)
We begin our trek from Samagaun to Manaslu Base Camp. The hike will take us through beautiful alpine landscapes, and we will gradually gain altitude. Our base camp will be set up and ready to welcome us, providing a comfortable place to rest and prepare for the climb.
Day 06: Preparation for Puja Ceremony and rest at Base Camp
This day is set aside for rest and preparation. We will also make arrangements for t-he traditional Puja Ceremony, which is very important, as we pray to the mountain gods for a safe climb and return.
Day 07: Puja Ceremony, gear, and equipment preparation for rotation
We will participate in the Puja Ceremony to seek blessings for a safe expedition. Afterward, we will prepare our gear and equipment for the rotation climbs. This day also includes final checks and preparations for the ascent.
Day 08: Climb to Camp I, overnight at Camp I (5,600m/18,373ft)
We begin our climb to Camp I, located at 5,600 meters. The ascent will be challenging but rewarding. We will spend the night at Camp I.
Day 09: Rotation to Camp II and return to Camp I
Today, we will climb to Camp II to familiarize ourselves with the route and the conditions, then return to Camp I for the night. This helps with acclimatization and prepares us for the subsequent climbs.
Day 10: Climb to Camp II, overnight at Camp II (6,300m/20,669ft)
We ascend to Camp II and spend the night there, further acclimatizing to the higher altitude. The climb involves moderate snow slopes and a steep section above Camp I, taking 5-7 hours.
Day 11: Rest and Acclimatization at Camp II
A day dedicated to resting and acclimatizing at Camp II. This helps our bodies adjust to the higher altitude, improving our chances of success. The views from this camp are spectacular, offering breathtaking sights of the surrounding peaks.
Day 12: Rotation to Camp III (6,900m/22,638ft) and Return to Camp II
We make a rotation climb to Camp III and then return to Camp II to sleep, continuing our acclimatization process. The route involves steady progress on snowy slopes, taking about 4-5 hours.
Day 13: Descend to Base Camp from Camp II
We descend back to Base Camp for rest and recovery. This will help us recuperate and prepare for the final summit push.
Days 14 – 18: Rest days
Several rest days at Base Camp to fully recover and finalize preparations for the summit attempt. This period is crucial for building strength and ensuring all equipment is in order.
Day 19: Climb to Camp I (5,600m/18,373ft)
We climb back to Camp I, starting our summit push. This marks the beginning of our final ascent phase.
Day 20: Climb to Camp II (6,300m/20,669ft)
From Camp I, we make our way up to Camp II, moving steadily towards our goal.
Day 21: Climb to Camp III (6,900m/22,638ft)
We continue our ascent to Camp III, where we will rest and prepare for the higher camps.
Day 22: Climb to Camp IV (7,300m/23,950ft)
We push to Camp IV, the final camp before the summit, positioning ourselves for the summit bid. This involves climbing a steep, vertical slope using fixed ropes, taking about 6-7 hours.
Day 23: Summit Day (8,163m/26,781ft) and Return to Camp II or Base Camp
An early start for our summit attempt. We aim to reach the top of Manaslu (8,163m) and then descend to either Camp II or all the way to Base Camp, depending on conditions and individual stamina. The summit climb requires steady progress over snowy/icy slopes, taking 6-8 hours. Our Sherpa team will aim to reach the “true summit,” ensuring a complete and successful ascent.
Day 24: Rest Day at Base Camp
A well-deserved rest day at Base Camp to recover from the strenuous summit attempt. Our base camp team will welcome us with celebrations and a warm meal, marking the success of our expedition.
Day 25: Direct heli flight from Base Camp to Kathmandu (1,300m/4,265ft)
We take a helicopter flight back to Kathmandu from Base Camp, avoiding the long trek out. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we transfer to our hotel for some rest and relaxation.
Day 26: Extra day in Kathmandu for gear pack up and farewell dinner
An additional day in Kathmandu to pack up gear, relax, and enjoy a farewell dinner with the team, celebrating our achievements. This day also provides time for sightseeing or last-minute shopping.
Day 27: Final departure
Today is reserved for your final departure. Depending on your flight schedule, our staff will transfer you to the airport at least three hours before your flight. Safe travels!
Ice axe with a leash
Crampons
Climbing Harness
Carabiners
Ascender (Jumar)
Belay Device
Prussiks
Trekking Poles
Helmet
Headlamp (min. 200 lumens) with sufficient batteries (Li-Ion batteries)
Sunglasses (Polarized/ UV Protected)
Woolen Cap
Sunhat
Buff Scarf
Balaclava
Liner socks
Woolen socks/ trekking socks
Summit socks (8000er series)
Down Suit
Down jacket
Down pants
Gore-Tex set \ Hard-shell set
Insulated mid layer
Fleece jacket
Thermal set
Quick dry (half and full sleeved)
T-shirts
Trekking trousers
Additional as per necessity
Liner gloves
Fleece gloves
Expedition Gore-Tex gloves (heavy duty)
Mittens
Trekking shoes
Expedition climbing shoes (8000er series)
Camp shoes/ slippers
Gaiters
Liner socks
Woolen socks/ trekking socks
Summit socks (8000er series)
Trekking backpack
Expedition backpack
Sleeping bag (-20℃ for base camp)
Sleeping bag (-40℃ for higher camps)
Sleeping Mattress
Hygiene kit (toiletries)
Sun screen (min. 60 SPF)
Lip guard with SPF
Water bottle
Thermos
Personal medications
Personal first aid kit
Camera and associated gears
Camp knife/ multi-tools
Binoculars/ magnifiers
Personal reading accessories
Dry bag/ compression bags
